What do the Portuguese have to do with India?

Tuesday, June 6, 2017

Masala omelette, breads, soup, a sweet bread, and other warm dishes I didn't know but certainly tasted made up our breakfast buffet at the hotel. 

At around 9, we met our guide, Mario, who was highly recommended by our friends. A driver took us to our first stop, Panjim. Mario told us the history of the city and how the Portuguese had control of the city for nearly five centuries. As a result, their influence can still be seen in the architecture, businesses, street names, cuisine, monuments, and Catholic churches. It wasn't until the 60's of this century that Goa experienced independence. 

As we walked through the streets, Mario would point out various buildings, businesses, and even fruit (Jack fruit tree). One building was an early hostel for the hippies who started coming in the 60's. The walls were full of hippie graffiti. A little hole-in-the-wall bakery still uses a stone fire oven. A case of sweets tempted our palettes, and we decided to buy a traditional Goan treat called Bebinka. We tried it later at our hotel and it is absolutely delicious. 

Our driver then took us to Old Goa. It used to be the capital, I think. Panjim is the current capital of Goa. 

We didn't explore the main center of Old Goa, but rather the large, historic churches on the outskirts. During Portuguese rule, the Catholics were having a difficult time converting Indians, so to "prove" their progress, they would construct cathedrals. It was one of these churches that we visited. They have particular modesty standards, so I took out a scarf to cover my shoulders and Walt wrapped a towel around his waist to cover his legs. It was quite comical. :)

W: Being forced to wear a dress to church. And then laughed at. I expect this from my wife, but not my tour guide. Also, saw my reflection. Will look into tunics back in the states. 

The cathedral was beautiful and looked very similar to most other cathedrals. On our way out, I was surprised to see a tv screen playing a sovereign grace concert. Mario told us that they will sometimes play their songs. 

We also saw a Hundu temple. We removed our shoes to go in and watched people come in and perform their rituals. The buildings are beautiful, but it is also sad to watch as people dedicate their lives and worship to a false god.

On our way out, a cow stubbornly stood in the gateway. Even when we got close and slid between it and the gate, there was not a budge. It was pretty funny.

Our next stop was the Sahakari Spice Farm. It is a very popular tourist stop, so there was quite a crowd when we arrived. When entering, we were given a necklace of fresh flowers, a shower of flower petals, and normally they add the red Hindu dot to your forehead, but our guide asked them not to do that for us since we are Christians. 

Mario had arranged a private tour of the plantation, so we parted with Mario for a little while and followed our new guide. Warm humidity paired with the surrounding lush, tropical plants reminded me of a jungle.  As we explored two acres of the plantation, our guide would often stop to show us a plant, let us smell the leaf (sometimes he would ask what we thought it was), and then explain the spice and its health benefits. Amid the spice trees and bushes were other foods such as cashews, pineapples, and peppers (very spicy ones). Walt and I were fascinated. 

W: Some guy just took us from Mario. Seems a little arrogant—a real know it all. Keeps pointing out the different spices and plants and telling us all kinds of "interesting" "facts" that I can't verify because I don't have Internet and I can't understand Know It All. Making me look like an idiot in front of Jill. Pretty sure it's on purpose. Have asked twice where they grow the Old Spice. Seems uninterested in answering. 

At the end of our tour, we received two treats. The first was a simulation of what a spice plantation worker would do at the end of his shift. Their jobs required hard labor, so to cool down and relax, they would (and still do) jump into a cool stream of water. To simulate this experience, our guide took a ladle full of cool, clean water infused with lavender and citrus oils (which have a calming effect) and poured it down our backs. Our second treat was a warm glass of lemongrass tea slightly sweetened with honey.

W: Have repeatedly pronounced the "h" in herb when I can get a word in over this guy. Also, had to be restrained when he poured water down my shirt. Thought it would take more than just Jill to hold me back at full strength. 

Our drive from the spice farm to our final destination was the same as every other drive that day. Walt and I would try to take in our surroundings as they sped by while also pestering Mario with all the questions that had built up since our arrival to India. 

Our final destination was a beautiful Goan beach. It was about 2pm and Mario knew of a great restaurant situated right on the beach. Walt had beef something ? with naan bread and I had fish curry and rice. They were delicious. 

After lunch, we walked down a couple of stairs and onto the beach. Because it is Monsoon season, the waves were a little choppy and the tide strong. Walt eventually went for a swim until a lifeguard came over and told him he couldn't swim at that part of the beach. Not wanting to walk all the way down to where he could swim, we relaxed on the sand until we were ready to go.

W: Only one brave enough to get in the water. Makes me feel better about Jill's superior upper body strength. She didn't get in the water.  

Once clean and changed, we drove about an hour back to our hotel. The sky was mostly sunny when we started, but about half an hour later saw some dark clouds rolling in. A few minutes later, several scooters had stopped at the side of the road to put on their rain gear. It was pouring. I'm so thankful the rain started when it did and not earlier during our tour. 

When we arrived at the hotel we were pretty tired so we took a nap. Around 7:30, we walked over to our friends' house for dinner. We were having so much fun that we lost track of time and didn't leave until midnight. It was still raining a little when we left, but we were prepared with umbrellas. It really wasn't far to walk.