Last few days in fast forward

Thursday-Saturday, June 15-17, 2017

Honestly, I am really proud at how well I kept up with my blog this trip! I rarely finish a trip. This post is more for myself and Walt; a few highlights from the last few days. It probably won't make much sense to many others. :)

This is also a glimpse at how many of my blog posts start. I type a quick outline in my phone, then expand later as I have time.

Thursday, June 15, 2017

Uber to president's house. 

Walked over an hour in 100 degree weather to India gate

Walked to lunch

Weird drink, good drink, vegetarian

Uber back to Hyatt

Uber to Qutub Minar. Forgot wallet. 

Awesome place

Had to find wifi...finally did. Guy was sleeping

Rested. Headache

Indian accent for dinner. Too expensive. 

Friday, June 16, 2017

Walt took pics while I packed. 

Left around ten. 

Airport. 

I thought man was a lady. 

Boarded plane to Heathrow. 

Left bag on plane. 

Customs took forever and waited at least an hour for bag. 

Good to see Drion's. Snacks and bed. 

Saturday, June 17,2017

Woke up at 5am so we went out. 

Walked to river then rode bikes. 

Queen's proper birthday today. We will miss seeing her by only a couple hours.

Coffee and croissants

Breakfast with Drion's and their friend.

Went to Heathrow. 

Flew home

Overall, we had an amazing time. India was one of the most fascinating, different places I have ever been to and we absolutely loved it. 

Breakfast at Jasper's

Wednesday, June 14, 2017

We weren't scheduled to meet the owner until 9:00, so Walt took part of the morning to explore and photograph the streets of Siliguri. I relaxed and packed up again. 

A little after nine, we checked out and met the owner and a colleague of his. They drove us and our backpacks over to the restaurant where we were greeted by some of our waiters from the night before. They were setting things up for the day while making a special place for us to eat. Breakfast was fabulous. They make everything at the restaurant, including some yummy chips. We had omelettes, little veggie sandwiches with the aforementioned chips, stuffed paratha with something I can't remember the name of, and real/good coffee! 

Everything was great, but even better than the food was getting to know our host. He talked about his passion for food and for always wanting to improve or make something new. We learned that every 60km you travel in India, there is a new cuisine. There is also a new language spoken but we learned that elsewhere. When he caters a wedding, he will talk to the bride and groom to figure out their preferences and their culture. He will often serve dishes that originated in their culture but have since disappeared. He also asked us a lot of questions and was a really good listener. When the time came for us to get to the airport, first, he wouldn't let us pay for the meal, and second, offered to drive us over. He said it gave him more time to get to know us. His generosity was overwhelming. 

I also appreciated the way he talked about his wife. He always held her in high regard and praised her in many ways. He also explained the modern process of arranged marriages. Parents will still arrange marriages, but it looks more like setting up their kids. Then they will court/date and decide if they want to marry them. I noticed that marriage and family is a big part of Indian culture. 

We said goodbye at the airport and went inside to check in. It's a small airport so dropping our bags and getting our tickets went quickly. Usually, the security line also goes quickly, especially for me because there have typically only been a few women compared to men. For some reason, today was different. The woman's line was packed (women were cutting) and it was taking forever. As I got close to the front, a flight attendant flagged me down and told me to come to the front of the line because they had just made a last call for our flight! I bypassed a few ladies, grabbed my belongings, and ran through the airport, following the flight attendant to the gate. I joined Walt and we ran outside to board out plane. Fortunately, his line had been short and when he heard the last call, he told the flight attendant where I was. It all worked out. 

Crazy enough, we also ran into our friend from the Himalayan zoo! I couldn't believe the coincidence. 

On our flight to Delhi, we sat beside an Indian man who has actually a U.S. Citizen and has lived on the east coast for over 20 years. Walt and I pestered him with questions almost the entire flight and he was very obliging. It was great to hear the perspective of someone who understands both cultures. 

After a taxi ride to the Hyatt and once we had checked in, we ventured back outside to see Lodi Park. It really surprised us. The park is beautifully maintained and holds several old (ancient) buildings. We explored the buildings and the park and then walked to a nearby restaurant we had read about. It is called Sodabottleopenerwala. This restaurant also surprised us. It was one of the best meals we have had in India. I had a vegetable curry that was tasty but walt's dinner stole the show— a mutton dish with coconut, curry, and spices mixed in rice along with two fried veggie? balls. We ventured on to dessert and tried a coffee cake (with lots of chocolate) and a traditional Persian custard with nutmeg and something else. I don't normally love custard, but once again we were surprised at how much we loved it. 

We took a walk around the surrounding street and alley that had several restaurants and shops before calling our uber to go home. 

I enjoyed a hot shower— the first in about a week. :)

Siliguri

Tuesday, June 13, 2017

A clear, gorgeous view of the Himalayas greeted us when woke up. We packed up (as we do everyday these days) and walked into town for breakfast. Most restaurants opened at 9:00, but one highly rated place called Baker's Cafe was open early. It was mostly American/European type options, so we opted for eggs on toast and honey French Toast. I also had an espresso. It was actually a real espresso. 

After breakfast, we headed back up the hill to the look out point. Unfortunately, the clouds had rolled back in so it was just as foggy as the day before. We also wanted to find a place called Golden Tips which sells tea and let's you try some. After searching down a few different streets, we eventually found it (actually, I was the one to find it for us, to be precise). 

We tried a few different teas. A white tea, oolong tea, first flush (the tea they harvest first), and second flush (a little stronger in taste). They were delicious.

Not wanting to drive down the scary, winding road in the dark again, we checked out of our hotel. Before the long drive, we ate lunch at a Tibetan place. It was highly rated and tasted good, but the food was greasy and I saw a couple bugs on the floor and wall. Not ideal. Then we walked over to grab a taxi— along with several other people. People were vying for the attention and rides of the few taxis that would pull up every few minutes, as more people would also arrive and try to get a ride. Walt was great. He caught the eye of a taxi who pulled up past the crowd, dropped off some people, and picked us up. We had only waited a couple of minutes. 

The jeep station was also pretty crowded— partly tourists and partly drivers trying to fill up their jeeps to full capacity. We prepaid for our own jeep (insisting on a jeep instead of a car because of the road) and started the five hour drive. 

This driver felt much safer. Along our drive, we did see several cars parked and people congregating near the steep drop-off on the side of the road. Our driver stopped as well, and we soon discovered that a truck with a tank had fallen off the road and was now down near the stream. We weren't sure of the driver survived. We weren't even sure how they were going to try and get him out. It was a sobering sight. Thankfully, the rest of the drive was uneventful. 

Our driver dropped us off near our hotel. For some reason, I had thought that our hotel was only going to be ok. It turned out to be one of the nicest. Once settled, we went back outside into the humid heat (which we were now becoming accustomed to) and walked about thirty minutes to a restaurant that had high reviews. 

Along the way, we passed several fruit stands, a tea bar, a lady ironing clothes in front of their laundry "store" (all of these were more like huts/shanties), and a few groups of men playing cards. People are always socializing with each other, cars are always honking, and vendors or taxis are constantly calling out to you. All of this happens while you try to navigate the streets— avoiding trash piles or dog/cow poop, avoiding dogs/cows, avoiding getting hit by the cars (they don't have sidewalks on many streets), and avoiding holes in the ground. Meanwhile, you are soaking in the various smells (some good and some bad) and vibrant colors and culture surrounding you. The streets of India are never dull. 

The food at the restaurant was a fusion of dishes and ethnicities. For example, our starter was tandoori momos. Delicious. From the moment we sat down to the moment we left the restaurant, we were fully attended to. The waiters and manager would make sure everything was good and stayed with us the entire meal. We had a good time talking to them— asking them questions and answering theirs. 

At the end of our meal, the manager gave us a tour of the bar below the restaurant and introduced us to the owner of the restaurant who happened to be eating there. He was extremely friendly and spoke the best English out of anyone we had encountered thus far. He was so friendly and interested in talking to us that he offered to make us a meal the following day. We had to catch a flight around noon, so even though his restaurant doesn't open in the mornings, he asked if we would like to come for breakfast. In fact, he had a meeting in the morning at our hotel and said he could even drive us over. It was such a generous offer and unique experience that we had to accept. It was almost too good to be true. 

After walking back, I was excited to have a nice hot shower in our nice hotel room. No such luck. Even Walt didn't have any luck. 

Gangtok

Monday, June 12, 2017

Due to the hard bed, it was difficult to sleep in, but this was our only full day in Sikkim anyway. We got up, looked out the window, and were dismayed to see only fog and many people with umbrellas. It was raining. We did a little research as to what we could see or do, had breakfast in the hotel, and decided on a game plan, rain or shine. We also notified the hotel of our room conditions and they said they would clean. 

By the time we were heading out, we were pleased to discover that the rain had subdued and we were soon without umbrellas. Walking up the streets of Gangtok was a treat. Like everywhere in India, you are surrounded by vibrant colors. Even the clouds were starting to cooperate and we had a little more of a peak at the Himalayas. Distracted by the views and people all around us, there was also the added challenge of not being hit by the many vehicles squeezing past us on the narrow roads.

 Up, up, up we climbed until we reached a lookout point. We looked out at more fog and kept following the street. We knew that a few miles more would take us to a zoo, and since we hadn't done much walking, we enjoyed our little hike. Occasionally the sun would burn up some of the clouds and we would admire breathtaking views of green mountains and little villages perched on the sides.

As we walked along, people in their shops, standing at their windows, or walking along the same road would either watch us apprehensively, smile at us, or ask us where we were going. A school boy walking the other direction stared at us as we passed, then asked us where we were going. We answered and returned the question. Then we kept walking and a few feet further, he asked us where we were from. We had a short conversation with him. Then he said "bye!" A little further on, I turned around and saw him still watching us go. I gave him a wave and kept walking up.

Close to our destination, We passed many flags strung across the side of the road. They lead us to the intersection of the zoo on our right and a Buddhist temple on the left. We walked right and began our tour of the zoo. It is the first zoo in India to design the exhibits with a lot of land and terrain similar to the animal's natural habitat. Although the the animals are contained, hey don't merely sit in cages, therefore there was a sign warning guests hat the animals may not always be in sight. We kept our hopes low by expecting not to see much. 

Once again, we were pleasantly surprised. The first animal on the map was a black bear. We walked up to his exhibit and there we was! He even jumped up a little then walked into his cave. Very exciting for us since we had walked in with low expectations. As we were leaving the exhibit, a few people we walking in. We told them the bear had just gone into his cave. One of the people was an eighteen year old boy from Punjabi. He asked us where we are from. As soon as we said the U.S., his eyes lit up and he got really excited. He told us "Friends" is his favorite show and that he watches all the American shows. He loves American culture. We shook hands and walked to the next exhibit.

At the next exhibit, the same boy and his parents walked up. He told us that after we had left, the bear had walked out, climbed on a post and waived at them! He showed us a video of the bear. After running into him at a few more exhibits, he stuck with us and we talked to our new friend while visiting most of the other exhibits. A few animals I remember are a peacock (India's national bird) who did a dance for us and some pheasants, a red panda, a tiger, barking deer, we didn't see the Siberian wolf, but he was there somewhere, etc. 

A few hours later, we started the walk back home. About half way back, it started to rain. Fortunately, we had our umbrellas and the rain wasn't too bad. It only started to rain harder as soon as we got to our hotel. 

We looked at our room and there were still a few bugs in the bathroom. We told the staff and they asked if we wanted to move into another room. We did, and it was a little better, but not by much. We didn't really want to find another place because it was raining, but we also didn't want to pay full price (not expensive in the USA, but expensive for India and for what we were getting). The owner was only willing to discount a very small amount if we stayed, or she would reimburse us for the second night and we could leave. We chose to leave. Using lonely planet, I called a recommended hotel and they said they had room for us. We collected our bags and walked brought the rain to our new hotel. Fortunately, it wasn't far. 

This hotel was so much better and was even cheaper than our first place! The room was clean, the bed still didn't have a proper mattress, but the pad was much thicker, and we even had a little balcony. 

Because it was pouring outside, we had dinner at the hotel. I had a chow mien dish and Walt had a chicken masala and naan dish. We even made friends with a little puppy named Messy. The owners had recently got her and she was full of puppy energy and ready to play. Walt loved it. 

I was so excited to shower that night, until the water wouldn't get warm. I'm not familiar with their showers, so it either took a really long time to heat up or I didn't do it right. Either way, mine was cold but Walt's was hot. 

Political Unrest

Sunday, June 11, 2017

We were up, packed, and ready to go by 7:00am in order to grab a quick continental breakfast before our last tour in Jaipur. Amber Fort, pronounced Ammer Fort, was built in the late 16th century by Maharaja Man Singh. To enter the fort, our tour included an elephant ride. We were so high up! The ride was both fun and sad because we felt bad for the elephants, especially Walt. 

Our guide gave us a tour in double time because we only had one hour to see as much as possible. The fort was impressive and my favorite part was a hall of mirrors. Various sizes of mirrors had been cut and designed to create designs all along the wall and ceiling. As you walked down the hall, the mirrors would catch the sunlight and created a sparkling effect. You could still faintly see the original paintings on a couple walls. There are even a few secret passages that lead to a fortress just above the palace, but unfortunately, those are closed to the public.

W: Emergency! Can't find my wallet! Will not tell Jill as this will only make her make me cry. 

After our quick run through, we were dropped off at the airport. Checking in went quickly and there were only two gates for domestic travel, so we didn't have to go far. Everything went so quickly that we had time to check on the news in Darjeeling and discuss our plans for that night. I was communicating with a different airbnb farm stay in Mirik. It is still in the Darjeeling district, but about an hour from the actual town of Darjeeling. At first we thought it would be ok, but the more Walt read about the situation, we realized the protests were spreading to other towns in the district, such as Mirik, but hey weren't as bad. This still made us hesitant. When it was time to board our plane, we still didn't know. 

We had a layover in Delhi, so we figured we would make some decisions there. The problem with that plan was that we took off half an hour late, leaving us only enough time in Delhi to connect to our next flight. No time to look at the news or contact anyone. So it would be down to the last minute. We would have to decide when landing in Bagdogra. 

There was a problem with that plan too. Bagdogra is a very small airport with no air conditioning and, more importantly for us, no wifi. When I couldn't find a wifi connection, I asked a couple stewardesses if there was wifi. They said they didn't think so but to ask a guy working in one of the offices. I walked over and knocked and was greeted by two young men who ended up being extremely helpful. At first, he told me there was no wifi. So I asked if a place nearby had wifi and he told me of a place but it was too far to walk to. I felt like crying because I had no idea what we would do without being able to tell people if we were coming or not coming. After I explained my situation and seeing that I was distressed, his friend said that he would create a hotspot for me with his phone. I was SO thankful!  

After Walt had joined me (he was originally getting our bags), we decided to book he airbnb in Mirik. Then we asked the guys if things were any better in Darjeeling. They said no and that, if anything, it was getting worse. We were thankful for their honesty. We also asked about Mirik and they were hesitant about going there too. Then we asked about Sikkim (which would be 4.5 hours away, rather than 2-3). They said the Sikkim region is fine, and we had read that a lot of tourists were going there instead of Darjeeling. So made our decision to go there. I did quick research for an airbnb in Gangtok and booked one of the few choices that looked decent. I didn't want to take up too much of his guy's data, and we were all sweating in the heat of the airport, so I felt bad for them having to wait with us. 

W: Not sure what's happening. Still can't find wallet. Jill said she feels unrested and wants to change hotels. Said she is politically unstable and wants to join a gang. Not sure how that will help, but I just nodded. 

At this point, I was currently booked for three different places in the Himalayas. I messaged he first two to let them know our final decision (we had been in contact with them during our decision making), downloaded the Gangtok region on google maps, and looked up directions to our hotel. 

We thanked the men profusely and headed over to the prepaid taxi stand to see about getting a ride to Gangtok. Walt and I were hounded by taxi drivers asking us where we were going and promising cheap fares. But they are often tourists traps and sometimes dishonest (from what I had read) so we kept walking to the stand. Unfortunately, they don't drive to Gangtok, but we could get a taxi to Siliguri and then a jeep from there to Gangtok. So that's what we did. The taxi took us to a jeep station. When Walt asked how much to go to Gangtok, the guy quoted 3,500 rupees. 

"3,500 rupees!!" Walt exclaimed. 

"Ok, 2,500 rupees'" the man replied. 

Then Walt said, "How about 2"

Hesitantly, the man said he would ask the jeep driver. A minute later, he walked over and said, "Ok, he will take you for 2,000." 

Much better. Especially for our own private jeep. I have since learned you can make the journey in a shared jeep for only 200/person, but those are in ten person jeeps, and because we were trying to get a ride so late in the day (it was 5:00 pm at this point), there was no one else to share a jeep with. 

We also just wanted to get up there. 

After our driver purchased a few mangos, and then five minutes into the drive, some coconuts, we were off. And what a ride. These narrow, winding mountain roads carry traffic both ways, which would be fine if people here didn't drive as wild as they do. They are always in a rush to pass each other. Our driver was veering around corners (even in the rain), cutting it close while passing cars, and it only got scarier as the light faded into night. And then he would occasionally answer his phone. Walt and I did a lot of praying on that ride. By God's grace, we made it. 

In contrast to the frightening feeling that we might crash or slide off the side of the cliff at any point, the scenery was a pleasant experience. A variety of lush green trees and bushes provide a blanket for the steep, majestic mountains. A river divided us from a different mountain for almost half the drive and the clouds would sometimes hover near the tops of peaks in the distance. Then add a sunset. I was sad to see it go as our sunset faded into darkness. 

At about 9:00 pm, we were thankful and so glad to have arrived. But our adventure did not stop there. The airbnb hotel we had hurriedly booked was on the main street of town. It is filled with multi-level buildings sandwiched together with stores, restaurants, and other businesses in every nook and cranny of the street. It's called M G Marg. We later learned that M G stands for Mahat magandi. 

In one of these nook and crannies is a small staircase that led us up to a parking lot. Along the back of the building, we saw the entrance to Hotel Zamden. The lobby looked like the pictures, so I knew we had arrived, but the man at the desk, who spoke only a little English, did not have that same knowledge. I showed him the booking on my phone and told him how much we had paid. It was difficult to communicate with him due to the language barrier, but he eventually showed us to a room. It had two separate single beds. I hadn't remembered that from the pictures, but since had arrived so late, I thought maybe that's all they had left. When we went back down to the reception, the guy at the front desk had called the owner and she had told him that the room we booked was a different one. A "better" one. 

So we took our stuff to a bigger room that actually had a double bed. Although, I was glad to have the bigger bed, it was literally a wooden bed with an old thin pad on top. No real mattress. 

It was a very hard bed to sleep on. We also noticed several little gnat or flea type bugs in the bathroom. They were on the walls and in the towels. We decided not to shower and trips to the bathroom were short. At least we had a place to sleep.

We were too tired to try and find new accommodations, but we did go looking for dinner. We ate at a busy restaurant called Masala. It was noisy and I don't want to see what the kitchen looked like, but the food was really good. The garlic naan bread was delicious. 

Tired and hopeful that bugs were only in the bathroom (I used my silk insert for the bed), we went to bed. 

A WONDERful day

Saturday, June 10, 2017

Tired, yet excited, we woke up early enough to meet our tour guide in the lobby at 5:45am. Off we went to see the Taj Mahal! Due to pollution, you can't drive close to the monument, but we took a pleasant walk through a park. 

Surprisingly, there were several people running around and playing in the park...at 6am! It was already pretty light, so I think people were taking advantage of the "cooler" (probably 80's) temperature to get exercise. 

We also met several monkeys and their babies sitting, grooming, or playing around. They were pretty cute, especially the babies. 

Entering through the East Gate and walking across a plaza, we caught our first glimpse of the Taj Mahal. We continued our walk across the plaza and entered through the King's gate where you could see the impressive building in full. The early morning light gave the white marble a soft look. Occasionally, your eyes would catch the sparkle of precious jewels glistening in the sunlight. 

To reach the Taj, we walked past a fountain/pool and through the garden. Our guide explained the history behind why the Taj Mahal was built. You see, a King had only one wife (not common back then) who he loved dearly. He called her Mumtaz Muhal which means "light of the palace." Sadly, she died during the birth of their fourteenth child. He was so heartbroken that the very next year, he started construction on her tomb— the Taj Mahal. Twenty two years later, it was finished, but his son usurped the throne and put his father on house arrest. Until his dying day, all the old ruler could do was view the monument from afar. 

That's how the story goes. 

Before walking up the stairs, we put foot coverings over our shoes. This was my favorite way of having respectful feet, because these were unworn, and I didn't have to worry about what organisms my bare feet were touching. 

The engravings and jeweled patterns inlaid in the marble are amazing. The marble itself is of a high quality which is one reason why it has stood so well for the last few hundred years. Unfortunately, the high levels of pollution from the city have given it a yellow tint, but restorations are being made to clean it. At one section where they were working, a "line" ran down the side with one side being yellow and the other white. 

As I entered the tomb, a pigeon scared me as it flew right beside my head. Birds are very common at these monuments. I think it's because they have a lot of ledges to hang out on. 

The interior was a continuation of the white marble inlaid with designs and jewel patterns. In the center are two white marble tombs— the king's tomb being larger than the queen's. Their bodies are actually buried below the earth, so the tombs are simply representations. 

From there, we walked through several rooms that Hindus will use for prayer. Exiting to the back, you could see the Yamuna River. 

We took our time walking around, taking pictures, and admiring the building's details. 

We stopped to take a few more pictures as we walked back through the garden to the gate we had entered. 

Overall, it was a great experience, but if I could do it again, I would go without a tour guide. He showed us good picture spots and took pictures of us, but I also felt like we were on a schedule and would've liked time to just explore on my own. Oh well. Next time. :) 

After the Taj, we were taken back to our hotel for breakfast. It was a simple continental breakfast of toast, an omelet, and cereal. We packed up our belongings again, put them in the car, and drove to Agra Fort. 

This fort is where the king lived and where he was put on house arrest. It was used long before that by many rulers— as a palace and sometimes in war. We were shown the courtyards, women's chambers, garden, etc. We were also shown its two moats. One was filled with dangerous crocodiles and second with tigers and other dangerous animals. These were useful forms of protection. 

Lastly, our guide took us to a marble store where we were shown how they create each piece by hand. It was very interesting to watch and they even let us try to chip away at the marble with their special tool. Once they chip out a design, they will "glue" (also handmade), precisely cut jewels, and precious stones to create a beautiful design. 

He then tried to sell us something, of course. 

Since we had a flight out from Jaipur the next day, we drove the five hours back. Once again, just as we were beginning to need a restroom, our driver pulled over to a small hotel/restaurant. We used the facilities, but didn't want to eat there. While our driver had his lunch, we walked around.

 Later into our drive, we went through a sandstorm! It wasn't very big, but all around us and far into the distance, the heavy winds were kicking up dust. I felt bad for all the people on motorbikes and open trucks. 

We arrived to our hotel in Jaipur in the late afternoon. We were getting hungry (only snacks for lunch) but instead of looking for dinner spots, we were distracted when I read about political unrest in Darjeeling— our next night's stay. Walt and I spent the next couple of hours researching the situation, researching other options, and trying to figure out what to do. 

With no definite plan, we did eventually decide to go to dinner. Walt got an Uber for us and we ended up at a really fancy hotel. Inside the hotel and past the lobby were several upscale restaurants. The one we were looking for is called Cinnamon. It was such a good choice. The gold plates and chalices, along with the rich decor gave it an opulent, Indian feel, but the real treasure was the food. Walt ordered a cinnamon curry chicken and I had a dish with vegetables cooked with spices and saffron infused rice. While waiting for our food, we were also given a tray of vegetables and a delicious, spicy mango sauce. 

After dinner, we are often given a small amount of fennel and sugar to freshen the palette. 

Extremely tired and full of good food, we summoned another Uber to take us back to our hotel. He was an Uber driver in training, so there was another guy with him, but he didn't do much except play some pop Indian music on the stereo. Our driver got us back (a few scary Indian driving moments- especially when you see oncoming vehicles coming toward you), took cool showers (unfortunately the last few nights have not had hot water), then went to bed. 

Roadtrip to Agra

Friday, June 9, 2017

Have you ever woken up knowing it was from a very deep sleep? That's how I felt when I woke up that morning. Since we didn't have to be ready until 9, we took our time packing up and eating the hotel's continental breakfast. 

Our morning and early afternoon consisted of a car ride from Jaipur to Agra. The ride took about five hours to our first stop, Fatehpur Sikri, and then another hour to Agra. 

The ride itself was pleasant, especially in an air conditioned car. At first we mostly just looked out the windows. The views here do not tire quickly because everything is so different from what I am accustomed to— like watching a camel take a cart of bricks down the street. Speaking of animals, we also had to avoid cows and dogs in the street on several occasions. 

City turned to desert country. Plenty of green trees fill the flat dirt landscape. An occasional hill made of dirt and rock rises in the distance. Although we were in the country, we didn't drive far without seeing a building, village, or small market. Some people were hard at work while others were just sitting or laying down in the shade. Children ran around, often without an adult in sight, and sometimes you'd see men or boys bathing in outdoor pools or showers in their underwear.

W: Lots of tiny villages. Hoping they have electricity for their desktops so they can adequately use whatever the Indian version of Facebook is. Would be sad to know they don't have proper access to digital social networking to keep up with family and friends.

We passed several toll booths, but before one particular toll booth, just as Walt and I were hoping to find a restroom sometime soon (there aren't exactly gas stations lining the road, and I don't think I want to use what facilities they have), our driver pulled the car over, grabbed an orange folder, got out of the car, and disappeared inside an old building—all without saying a word. He also doesn't speak English so it wouldn't have helped much if he did. 

Walt got out to inspect one of the old buildings and found a toilet. Well, one room had a toilet but no door, and the other had a door with a squatty potty. I opted for the second option and was thankful I had brought tissues. We roamed around the area for awhile and Walt started talking to the guys who were also there. They had asked if we wanted to eat at their restaurant but after seeing the kitchen, which was right next to the bathrooms, and frequented by flies, we didn't think that would be a good idea. Walt ended up buying a water bottle and four tin cups. At first the guy didn't want to sell the cups, but then he did. Walt has always wanted tin cups and now he has some. I thought that was hilarious. 

We also found out that the reason for the stop was to pay a tax that is required for entering a new state. It took about twenty minutes and then we were back on the road. 

We napped, snacked on bread rolls I had saved from a flight and a packet of trail mix, read about our next stop, and observed our surroundings until we arrived at a fortress called Fatehpur Sikri. It was a capital for a very short time after a ruler built the city, but due to water shortage, it was deserted. A small community of people live in the area surrounding the fort. 

Our new tour guide introduced himself and showed us to a bus that would take us the two km to the fort. We got on the bus with a few other people and just sat here waiting for more people. It got very hot very quickly. Thankfully, it wasn't too much longer before we left. The tour was interesting and the red sandstone fort was impressive. The king had here wives: one a Hindu, one a Muslim, and one a Christian (Catholic). The marriages were for political reasons but he is also known for letting everyone practice their own religion. The house for the Hindu wife was the biggest because she was the one who eventually bore him a son and heir.

W: Learning a lot about Indian history. For example, a king gave his wife a big block house in the desert because she gave him a son with hair. Seems to be a big deal in ancient India.

When going in to visit the white marble Hindu temple, we had to take off our shoes and wear slippers due to the hot ground. I was not too excited about the slippers because they were annoying but mostly because I'm sure they don't get washed after every use. :/

When entering, there were several persistent people trying to sell us stuff and Walt and I accumulated a small group of boys. One started talking to me, another to Walt, and they began by asking us our names, where we were from, and telling us everything they knew about the states, including the fact that people from Mexico live there and then he spoke some Spanish to me. After our tour guide told us about the temple and we were given time to walk around, the boy would follow me and tell me what he knew about the surrounding buildings. He would also make sure I knew where all the steps and obstacles were. I knew his intention, so it was hard for me to say no when he started to sell his product. He was ten years old and very smart, but I didn't want to encourage his profession. I also didn't want what he was selling. 

After walking around, we took a tuk tuk back to the parking lot where our car was. We said goodbye to our tour guide and drove the rest of the way to Agra. Our poor driver (I'm not impressed with the company) had no idea where our hotel was. He hadn't even known the name of the hotel until the tour guide had first asked us (but it took me awhile to find the info) and then called the company. In the city, we had to stop probably 8 or 9 times to ask for directions. We did find it though, checked in, and settled in. A man from the company had come to check on us and wanted to know if we wanted he driver to take us to dinner. Knowing the city is pretty spread out, I accepted the offer and we settled on meeting at 7. In the meantime, Walt and I took a walk and found a real store— the first I've noticed since being here. It sold clothes, household items, and a little food. Since we are running out of the snacks I brought, we purchased a few items (a couple are familiar and a couple are experiments). 

Back at the hotel, we went to meet our driver but he wasn't there. About ten minutes later, he came over and we gave him directions to a restaurant called Pinch of Spice that I had found in our Lonely Planet guide. It wasn't very far from our hotel. 

The food was delicious. Walt had the buffet which was a variety of Indian and Chinese options and I had some naan bread with a spicy lentil soup. I also tried a taste of whatever Walt got. After awhile, the waiter would just ask if I wanted a little on my plate too. :)

Our driver took us back to the hotel where we retired for the evening. 

Royals of Jaipur

Thursday, June 8, 2017

We didn't get much sleep because wake up time was around 4am. We checked out, met our driver at 4:45, and he drove us to the airport for our 7:00 flight. Check in for our flight went smoothly and we arrived at our gate with plenty of time. I thought we could walk around but it became quickly apparent that it was going to be a short tour. The terminal is very small with only a couple of shops and one deep dish pizza stand with the slogan "It's All About Pizza!." The funny thing is they only offered two types of pizza. Everything else on the menu was sandwiches, etc. 

Our final destination is Jaipur, but we had a 3:30 layover in Mumbai (Bombay). The one hour hop from Goa to Mumbai went smoothly. 

As we were landing, we could see massive shanty town tin roof neighborhoods stretching across the city and right next to the airport. The airport itself is extremely nice and has some fun architecture. Once we found the domestic departures and filed through our separate security lines (male/female), we decided to find some brunch. 

Wanting to try more Indian food, we sat down at a Street Food restaurant. Unfortunately, most of the menu wasn't available until 11, but we still had a good meal of Samosa and other Indian food. I ordered a cup of cutting chai because I know India is known for their chai and I was excited to try it. But chai means tea, so instead of the spicy chai tea we think of back home, it tasted more like a black tea with mostly milk. Indians love a lot of milk in their tea so that's how it was prepared. I was a bit disappointed, but now I know to order masala chai. Apparently that is the tea with spices. 

Before taking off from Mumbai, we were given a small container of spiced buttermilk. I tried it, but didn't enjoy. Unfortunately, we were also served lunch on our flight (I hadn't thought we would get food). I say unfortunately because we had just eaten and Indian food tends to be heavy since there are a lot of carbs. We weren't hungry so we just tasted. 

Another unfortunate incident came toward the end of the flight when we hit some bumpy turbulence. Our trays of half eaten food were stacked on top of each other on the pull-down tray of the empty aisle seat next to me. I was holding the bottom tray so it wouldn't fall, but I was looking out the window. Unnoticed by me, the turbulence was bouncing the top tray toward the aisle. A crash caught my attention, and I found myself holding only one tray with the other one, along with its food contents, fallen in the aisle. Oops. I felt bad for the stewardesses.

W: Have a short time in the air. Thinking about business opportunities in Mumbai. Mumbites, everybody's favorite Mumbai meals, but in bite size portions. Even the tables and chairs and forks and knives are all tiny and edible. Moo-mbai, a cow milk bar with masala ice cream, also doubles as a cow stable. Mumbrides, social networking site for Mumbai area brides, also doubles as a cow stable. 

We landed safely in Jaipur, deplaned on stairs that led us out into the blazing heat, and then rode the short bus ride to our baggage claim building. While waiting for our bags, we noticed an Indian girl, probably our age, who had people taking off several large suitcases for her. There were probably 12 or more. I'm not sure who she was, but I do know that she definitely overpacked. 

As we exited the doors, I found a man who held a piece of paper with our names on it. I had booked a tour for the next few days and he was our first point of contact. His accent was very thick and we had to ask him to repeat what he'd said a few times. I was very worried that he was our tour guide and gave up much hope of understanding what we would be seeing the next few days. On our way to the hotel, he left and said to be in the lobby by 3:00 for our tour. Our driver took us the rest of the way and we quickly settled in to our beautiful hotel room. 

Upon entering the lobby, I was so relieved to see a different man who I mostly understood. He was going to be our tour guide in Jaipur.

W: Tour guide dressed as Indian(a) Jones in the lobby. Asked him about Harrison Ford, but didn't respond or seem interested in what I was saying. Seemed more interested in talking to Jill about the tour. Both are ignoring me. 

First, we drove to the old city and walked around an observatory that was built in the 1700's. The ruler at that time was fascinated with astronomy and astrology. He had a huge plaza filled with massive sundials all telling the local time (slightly different from standard India time). There were also several monuments for astrology purposes, but we weren't interested in those. 

Next was the palace. The royal family still lives there, but similar to England royalty, they have no ruling power. We didn't go in the main building where they live, but we did see the armory— one of the most extensive in India. As you enter a sign completely made up of knives says "Welcome" and as you leave, a sign made up of gun parts says "Goodby". We also toured a museum that had the clothing of different eras of royalty. One piece of clothing was the pajama pants of a king who was said to weigh a lot (I can't remember how much but the pants were really big). Another building was a meeting hall that is staged to look as it did in the past. One massive chandelier hangs over a rich, red carpet. A throne is set on one side of the room and the walls have paintings of all the kings in this particular royal line.

An open building made up of several pillars held two extremely large silver vessels. In fact, they are said to be the largest silver items in the world. They were made so one of the Maharajas who was a very devout Hindu could take water from the Ganges (considered holy by them) to England. He gave it as a coronation gift to the new king. 

One building was an art studio of sorts. One of the maharajas loved art and loved to paint. He established this building as a place where artists could come paint for free and then sell their art. The building is run off of donations. One painter showed us his incredible talent by drawing a picture for us. We did eventually buy a painting from him, but later realized how much we had actually paid in dollars and regretted the purchase. We did, however, learn to do the conversions before buying anything in the future

After leaving the palace, our guide led us through the streets and various shops of spices, tools, clothing, food, flowers, and other items. Our final destination was a spice shop- a father/son business for many, many years. I have noticed that many Indians will take up the trade of their family and continue in their business. This man let us smell and taste several products in the hopes that something would tempt us. It did. But we did bargain him down. We weren't going to buy it, but then his dad told him to offer an even lower price, and since I do like to cook with spices, we took the deal. The nice thing about traveling during off season is that business is slow and merchants are more willing to give a deal. 

A lot of precious stones come from Jaipur so our next stop was a jewelry shop. We were taken downstairs for a demonstration on how the jewelry is made. It was interesting to see the handmade process and the tools they use. They gave us time to shop, but all we did was look. One guy sitting on the floor behind a counter was checking each of the stones to ensure their quality. 

Our next stop was a textile factory. Again, the process is all by hand, and we were shown how the workers use several stamps to create a pattern on a piece of material. They continue his precise work until a whole set is made. Again, we looked but didn't buy. However, we were very impressed. 

Our last stop was a Hindu temple. It is beautifully made out of white marble and was built only a few years ago by a very wealthy family. Although it was beautiful, it was also heart breaking to watch people so sincerely and devoutly worshipping the lifeless statues at the front. Our tour guide was among them. 

Extremely tired (I could barely keep my eyes open on the drive home), we were dropped off at our hotel. We shared a meal at the restaurant in the hotel—naan bread and a Rhajastanian dish with lamb. Then went to bed. 

W: Saw a bunch today. Don't remember most of if on account of being distracted the whole afternoon trying to remember the theme music of Fox's Magic's Biggest Secret's Revealed. 

Goat on a Boat

Wednesday, June 7, 2017

With nothing definitively planned for the day, we gladly took the opportunity to sleep in. After breakfast, we decided last minute to take the free shuttle service from the hotel to a local beach. For some reason, I had been picturing an actual shuttle bus, but the shuttle turned out to be a green jeep-looking vehicle. Makes more sense considering our location as well as the fact that Walt and I were the only passengers.

W: Emergency! Woke up in a cold sweat. Have not been using proper terminology this whole time. Have been using the term Indians instead of Native Americans. Feeling foolish. 

We were dropped off close to the beach at around 10:30 and would be picked up again at 1:00. This beach took us by surprise because it was much different from the beach the day before. Instead of white sand, it was red. Instead of clean, it was filled with trash. Rather than seclusion, we were surrounded by people who also decided to enjoy the beach. But we both enjoyed our time because we were able to people watch and enjoy what seemed to be a more normal family beach experience.

W: Brought up Native American thing to Jill. Didn't answer. Maybe she didn't hear me. Will look into it further then approach the subject again later when she can hear better. 

One thing we noticed was entire families sitting on the sand, waiting for the waves to roll in over them. Or they would stand in a line holding hands and stand their ground as waves came in. It was very much a family affair; even the "swimming". We later found out that many of those people probably can't swim, but they still want to go in the water so they will play in the waves. 

I also noticed that all of the women would go into the water with their clothes on, and I didn't see any of them in bathing suits. We did see one woman in a bikini, and it was very apparent that it was strange for her to be doing so. 

Walt and I decided to walk along the beach. The crowd of people thinned out as we went, but we were still occasionally stopped and asked to take a selfie with someone. 

Perspective is a funny thing. To the Indians, a white couple strolling on the beach was something to take notice of but they didn't take a second glance at the goats hanging out on top of an overturned boat—a sight that drew our full attention. 

On our walk back, a stray dog decided to follow us. Walt named him Pento. He eventually laid down to take a nap. That's where we said goodbye. Speaking of stray dogs, they are very common here.

W: Oh Pento, your slight limp, probably from chasing down one too many tennis balls from your owner. The way the flies seemed to only circulate the ozone of one eye. The way your tail hung limp, almost as if you were choosing not to smile. Why do you brood Pento? You're enjoying a day at the beach. Frolic, don't butt lick. 

Since Monsoon season is starting, the clouds became heavier and showered us on our walk back. We were armed with umbrellas, so the attack had minimal damage. The shower was brief.  The Indians barely noticed anything was happening and continued in their fun. 

Speaking of fun, a group of boys were playing cricket on the beach. We stopped to watch for a little while. I wanted to join the fun.

W: If I've learned anything on this trip, it's that Native Americans don't know how to play baseball. Also, their pitching consistently sucks. Always throwing it in the dirt. Also, batters have no concept of a strike zone—will continually chase down and away. Don't seem to have concept of base running as they usually just run between home and the pitcher's mound (if you can call flat land a mound which you can't).

Tried teaching proper pitching technique. Seemed upset when I threw a fastball right down the middle. 

As we walked back to the meeting spot, we perused the stands that had set up shop along the road. Saris, trinkets, toys, bathing suits (I'm not sure why), other articles of clothing, and jewelry were some of the items being sold. I wasn't actually planning to get anything, but we did end up buying a small decoration for our apartment. At first we were joking about the item, but as the shop owner lowered the price as we walked out, we decided to get it. 

A green jeep-like vehicle pulled up around 1. It was a different driver but the vehicle was the same, so I was hopeful it would take us back to our hotel. It did. 

We had lunch at our friends' house along with some refreshing homemade fresh lime soda, got a tour of the yard (fruit trees like mango, papaya, and banana and some herb bushes grow in many people's yards) and house, and talked for quite awhile. 

A bit later, we walked home, packed for our early flight the next morning, then walked to Coffee Cove for a pour over! Coffee in India is usually of the instant variety, so I haven't really been drinking any. The (real and freshly grounded) coffee beans used at the shop are also grown in India. It was delicious. A few of us girls chatted for a little bit, then walked downstairs for bible study.

Even halfway around the world and in such a different culture, we have an instant connection in the Lord and felt like we were with family. It was a blessing for us to be able to worship with them (they have beautiful singing!) and then to hear a sermon about Samson. 

At 8:00, the room was rearranged to make room for dinner. Rice and chicken with a green sauce (I am so bad at knowing what Indian food is...maybe I'll get it by the end of the trip) was delicious. Our dessert, made by one of the members, was just as delicious. It is a Portuguese dessert and consists of chilled cream, probably some sugar and other ingredients added to the cream, and bits of scone and nuts mixed in. 

After study, we went to our friends' house for one last hangout and to say goodbye. It was definitely a highlight to be able to spend time with them and I wish we could have stayed longer. As we were about to leave, the monsoon threw a tantrum. Although the walk home would've been short, the heavy wind and rain probably would've soaked us. I wouldn't have minded except that we had to pack those clothes for our flight the next morning. Our friends were very kind and drove us back. 

A funny side note is that Walt accumulated several names while here in Goa. One girl thought we were Bill and Jill. Another woman thought we were Jack and Jill. A young girl from the study said he looks like Jesus. And a 2 year old girl kept calling him "that guy." 

W: Native Americans is not the proper term.

What do the Portuguese have to do with India?

Tuesday, June 6, 2017

Masala omelette, breads, soup, a sweet bread, and other warm dishes I didn't know but certainly tasted made up our breakfast buffet at the hotel. 

At around 9, we met our guide, Mario, who was highly recommended by our friends. A driver took us to our first stop, Panjim. Mario told us the history of the city and how the Portuguese had control of the city for nearly five centuries. As a result, their influence can still be seen in the architecture, businesses, street names, cuisine, monuments, and Catholic churches. It wasn't until the 60's of this century that Goa experienced independence. 

As we walked through the streets, Mario would point out various buildings, businesses, and even fruit (Jack fruit tree). One building was an early hostel for the hippies who started coming in the 60's. The walls were full of hippie graffiti. A little hole-in-the-wall bakery still uses a stone fire oven. A case of sweets tempted our palettes, and we decided to buy a traditional Goan treat called Bebinka. We tried it later at our hotel and it is absolutely delicious. 

Our driver then took us to Old Goa. It used to be the capital, I think. Panjim is the current capital of Goa. 

We didn't explore the main center of Old Goa, but rather the large, historic churches on the outskirts. During Portuguese rule, the Catholics were having a difficult time converting Indians, so to "prove" their progress, they would construct cathedrals. It was one of these churches that we visited. They have particular modesty standards, so I took out a scarf to cover my shoulders and Walt wrapped a towel around his waist to cover his legs. It was quite comical. :)

W: Being forced to wear a dress to church. And then laughed at. I expect this from my wife, but not my tour guide. Also, saw my reflection. Will look into tunics back in the states. 

The cathedral was beautiful and looked very similar to most other cathedrals. On our way out, I was surprised to see a tv screen playing a sovereign grace concert. Mario told us that they will sometimes play their songs. 

We also saw a Hundu temple. We removed our shoes to go in and watched people come in and perform their rituals. The buildings are beautiful, but it is also sad to watch as people dedicate their lives and worship to a false god.

On our way out, a cow stubbornly stood in the gateway. Even when we got close and slid between it and the gate, there was not a budge. It was pretty funny.

Our next stop was the Sahakari Spice Farm. It is a very popular tourist stop, so there was quite a crowd when we arrived. When entering, we were given a necklace of fresh flowers, a shower of flower petals, and normally they add the red Hindu dot to your forehead, but our guide asked them not to do that for us since we are Christians. 

Mario had arranged a private tour of the plantation, so we parted with Mario for a little while and followed our new guide. Warm humidity paired with the surrounding lush, tropical plants reminded me of a jungle.  As we explored two acres of the plantation, our guide would often stop to show us a plant, let us smell the leaf (sometimes he would ask what we thought it was), and then explain the spice and its health benefits. Amid the spice trees and bushes were other foods such as cashews, pineapples, and peppers (very spicy ones). Walt and I were fascinated. 

W: Some guy just took us from Mario. Seems a little arrogant—a real know it all. Keeps pointing out the different spices and plants and telling us all kinds of "interesting" "facts" that I can't verify because I don't have Internet and I can't understand Know It All. Making me look like an idiot in front of Jill. Pretty sure it's on purpose. Have asked twice where they grow the Old Spice. Seems uninterested in answering. 

At the end of our tour, we received two treats. The first was a simulation of what a spice plantation worker would do at the end of his shift. Their jobs required hard labor, so to cool down and relax, they would (and still do) jump into a cool stream of water. To simulate this experience, our guide took a ladle full of cool, clean water infused with lavender and citrus oils (which have a calming effect) and poured it down our backs. Our second treat was a warm glass of lemongrass tea slightly sweetened with honey.

W: Have repeatedly pronounced the "h" in herb when I can get a word in over this guy. Also, had to be restrained when he poured water down my shirt. Thought it would take more than just Jill to hold me back at full strength. 

Our drive from the spice farm to our final destination was the same as every other drive that day. Walt and I would try to take in our surroundings as they sped by while also pestering Mario with all the questions that had built up since our arrival to India. 

Our final destination was a beautiful Goan beach. It was about 2pm and Mario knew of a great restaurant situated right on the beach. Walt had beef something ? with naan bread and I had fish curry and rice. They were delicious. 

After lunch, we walked down a couple of stairs and onto the beach. Because it is Monsoon season, the waves were a little choppy and the tide strong. Walt eventually went for a swim until a lifeguard came over and told him he couldn't swim at that part of the beach. Not wanting to walk all the way down to where he could swim, we relaxed on the sand until we were ready to go.

W: Only one brave enough to get in the water. Makes me feel better about Jill's superior upper body strength. She didn't get in the water.  

Once clean and changed, we drove about an hour back to our hotel. The sky was mostly sunny when we started, but about half an hour later saw some dark clouds rolling in. A few minutes later, several scooters had stopped at the side of the road to put on their rain gear. It was pouring. I'm so thankful the rain started when it did and not earlier during our tour. 

When we arrived at the hotel we were pretty tired so we took a nap. Around 7:30, we walked over to our friends' house for dinner. We were having so much fun that we lost track of time and didn't leave until midnight. It was still raining a little when we left, but we were prepared with umbrellas. It really wasn't far to walk. 

Ready, Set, GOA!

Monday, June 5, 2017 - New Delhi to Goa

We slept in until 8 and it felt amazing to be rested. Once we had everything packed, we attempted to take an uber ride to the airport. Due to our past experience, I was a little nervous. The first attempt failed due to the language barrier. The second attempt with a different hotel employee was a success. On our way to the airport we got to experience Delhi rush hour traffic.

W: Traffic was rough so I had quite a bit of time to think about how in the United States, rush hour in Delhi is a just congested line at a sandwich shop. I also had time to write business proposals for new ventures: Dehli deli, an Indian delicatessen; Del Lee dungarees, a famous Indian denim shop specializing in dungarees; Dehlieterhosen, Indian pants for the German gentleman. 

Check-in at the airport went smoothly. Since we hadn't had much to eat and were flying out at noon but wouldn't be fed on the plane, we decided to upgrade to the Premium Lounge. I'm so glad we did. We tried several different Indian foods from the buffet as well as a Masala omelette and Dubre. So delicious. 

One thing I noticed at the airport was how many times they checked our boarding pass. Just to enter the airport we had to show our passport and boarding pass (I had printed out our itinerary before we left). I showed that to the guy at the check-in counter and then we were given our real boarding passes. We had to show these at security, to get into the lounge, and then three separate times as we boarded the plane. 

There was one scary moment. Once in the lounge, I realized that I left my phone, iPad, and jacket in the bin at security. I ran back and sure enough, they were still sitting in the bin. I was so relieved.

W: Was in line for food and lost Jill. Hope she comes back. Wonder if she was planning on finishing her Dubre. 

The flight was a productive one for me since I spent it writing the blog from the last couple days. Walt read and filmed the chaos beside us. Several children were yelling and screaming (having fun but in a loud way), and fortunately, I was too distracted to care. It was only a couple of hours.

As we exited the airport, we saw our names on a piece of paper being held by the man who would transport us to our hotel. The tropical greenery and warm humidity was a stark contrast to the dry dusty heat of Delhi. The driving is the same here, but more people speak English and we noticed Catholic Churches. Portugal had a big influence here and it is definitely noticeable. 

At the hotel, we settled in and took a nap. For dinner, we walked over to our friends' house for a delicious, Indian homemade meal. After dinner, a group of Americans who had been helping them for the week, came for dessert (homemade Phirni). We had a great time talking to them and then stayed late even after the Americans left for a late night flight home.